La Palma; where dogs still chase cars…

This holiday did not get off to the most auspicious of starts. On our first evening in the villa, so photogenic in its splendid isolation,  we discovered that, in order to buy so much as a pint of milk, we had to drive slowly over a kilometre of single-lane road skirting the edge of a sheer drop. The altitude, which provided our wonderful view of the Atlantic to the front and the cumbre behind, rendered the whole place just a little on the chilly side, so much so that we had to switch the air-con to ‘heat’ all night.

But, having survived our first cool, isolated night, things were looking up the next morning. We sat on the terrace looking out towards Florida

eating our breakfast of garden-grown fruit and locally baked bread when a harsh yapping rudely interrupted our peace and quiet.  Some 50 yards below, a small, dirty-white terrier with a patch over one eye (you know the type?) was actually chasing a car. I haven’t seen a dog do that in Britain since the 1970s. I thought they’d forgotten how to do it. During our holiday week our dear adopted mutt chased cars, motorbikes, German runners (catching one woman smartly, though slobberly, on the heels- I’m so glad it wasn’t me!) and harassing assorted hikers.  After the first evening though, he never barked at us, appearing to recognise his new neighbours. Clever pooch!

The villa was just yards from the GR 130-1 trail upwards to Torre del Time. Our walk there began in bright sunlight but ended enshrouded in mist at this so-called viewpoint.

I believe it is an amazing view if you can see it.

A little further along this route would take you to the Roques de los Muchachos and to La Palma’s famous observatory.  However, although los Muchachos was a mere 10 kms further on, I was not keen to continue. Walking in La Palma is wonderful but strenuous.  It is covered in volcanoes and there are few level paths. For a holiday walk 5 to 10 kms (there and back) is sufficient as far as I am concerned.

Walks

We used Sunflower Books La Palma and El Hierro by Noel Rochford supplemented with the famous Paddy Dillon and his Walking on La Palma (Cicerone). As I said we rarely completed a full walk during our stay but despite this both books were a virtual fount of hiking and picnicking information for this island.

Walk 1; 5k there and back on route GR 130-1 from Las Cabezadas, the road running past our villa just on the hillside from the village of La Punta (to drive here; from the Mirador El Time continue on the main road to Tijarafe but turn right at the first main turning on the the Camino de la Molina. This is a narrow road with steep drops on either side in places so be careful. Turn left at the top of the Camino and the signpost to Torre del Time will  soon be visible on the right). This is a simple walk, but steep and scree-slippy in places. It will, however, reward you with wonderful views, despite the mist.

  

Walk 2; 1hr 45 mins.  7k there and back to Mirador El Time (about 400m descent and ascent) along the GR130-1 from Las Cabezadas again (same driving directions but the walk starts from the left hand side of the road just a few yards after the left turn at the top of Camino de la Molina). Although longer, this is a much easier walk than Torre del Time and there are cafes and postres galore at the Mirador Cafe.

Walk 3;  only 6.5k  but took hours! from El Fayal/Las Tricias to Cuevos de Buracas following Walk 15 in Sunflower Guide. Unfortunately this route needs changing. After wandering for hours trying to find the right path – the book said ‘carry straight on though someone’s gardens and the outdoor “living rooms” of some inhabited caves’ but I can assure you that the inhabitants do not like you walking through their gardens or living rooms. We could not hear clearly but we were certainly threatened either with a dog or a doctor (each of us heard the threat in our own way, reflecting, perhaps, our own strange nightmares).

The walk began as a delightful stroll through banana plantations, fruit orchards and past some dramatic dragon trees to the coast. So far, so beautiful, despite our confrontation with the dog/doctor.

The return was all uphill and lots of it on the road. Perhaps a taxi would have been a good idea. On the plus side, there is a lovely cafe (El Rincon) in the village square in Las Tricias where we enjoyed our rest and refreshments.

Walk 4; up above the Barranco de las Angustias in the Calder de Taburiente. I really can’t comment too much about this walk as we completely misread the directions and did what appeared to be another walk entirely. The best thing I can say about it is that it was good exercise… being very steep and very bad on the knees.

Walk 5; this walk was everything I love about La Palma. I really tested myself on this one as we climbed to the top of a Caldera. The last part of the ascent took seven minutes to scramble up and twenty-five minutes to crawl back down. Perhaps this tells you all you need to know about my fear of heights and my vertigo!

We followed Walk 9 in the Sunflower Guide from El Pilar recreation site (toilets, shop and snack bar on site) on the Cumbre Vieja to the Caldera Birigoyo and back. The original path was, unfortunately destroyed in the wildfires that destroyed so much of the Canaries’ vegetation a few years back. Luckily for us, a bit farther down the track we were able to scramble up and find a way to the caldera.  All along this mainly woodland path the view opened up at frequent intervals as we climbed up.  The book says the total ascent of this walk is less than 500m but it feels so much more, especially when you can see both sides of the island at once and, in the background, clouds rolling over the ancient Cumbre Vieja.

      

By the way, the Cumbre Vieja is that part of the island which, geologists predict, will slide into the ocean one day causing a tsunami of epic proportions.

Restaurants

Restaurante La Muralla, on the main road just north of Tijarafe, was good and good value as well. There was a restaurant in Tazacorte, Kiosko Teneguuia, with a very good Menu del Dia with that unusual ingredient – A VEGETARIAN OPTION! Everywhere we went food was fresh and well cooked but we didn’t eat out much in the evenings for the simple reason that it was a ten minute drive on narrow roads just to get to the main road from the villa. This was not a disadvantage as it meant we were at the villa early evening when the stars came out. One clear night the display was absolutely breathtaking.  My mind performed acrobatics attempting vainly to explain the sheer volume of stars in the sky. ‘Every one of them is a Sun’ my brain boggled ‘and how many of them have their own planets?’  This was probably the one time in your life when you would want to hear the irritatingly chirpy tones of the Famous Popular Astronomer.

Sightseeing

My favourite place in this area was the seaside town of Tazacorte, with its restaurants, beaches and this example of futuristic architecture, the harbour wall.

Accommodation

I really did not want to leave this villa at the end of the week. It could not have a better location, the pool was lovely, the gardens idyllic and, most of all, the neighbour dog was so entertaining. Juan, the owner, was unobtrusively helpful and very friendly. Cachet travel were exceptional in their organisation, including excellent directions to get to the villa. I would love to stay here again.

 

Facilities

It wouldn’t be Whenyougorrago if there wasn’t any mention of the facilities. I find the Canaries in general, and La Palma in particular, to be very well equipped with public toilets. You can find them in most large villages and towns, but, you must be aware, this is a small-ish island and there are plumbing and drainage challenges. Some toilets have an arrangement similar to Greece for disposal of toilet paper. The sensible thing is to look for notices in public toilets advising you not to put paper in the toilet.

We travelled with Cachet Travel who organised our flights (with TUI) and our car hire (with Avia) and they also provided us with the lovely Casa Arriba. on the west coast near Tijarafe.